Haleiwa 11/30/14
Shred so hard broke da stick lol RIPieces
Nah, it wasn't that big only like 2-3ft but I was sitting in the middle when a set wave came, turtled my board & buggah wen break in half, stringer and everything all bus. Luckily, I had my 5'2" fish in the car so I paddled back out. Snapped some pics, took my fins out, & gave it to some kid on the beach. I think I was most bummed about my Mitcho Kai sticker, love & miss you, brother.
One uncle on the beach said, "you could just say it was like 10ft..." Haha thanks, Uncle. Board was old, we had a good run, got the specs & shaper's phone number so I might get a replica plus double glass all around lol.
I'm actually pretty stoked, the first board I broke all the way in half!! At least it was on the North Shore!
Surfers, we're a different breed. Keep it real & stay weird guys.
"When the wave breaks here, don't be there or you're gonna get drilled!" -Turtle North Shore (1987)
Weirdly yours,
-K
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