Let it be known, today is International Surfing Day :) my biggest sadness today (and almost everyday) is that I won't be able to have myself a little surf seshie! There are so many "what ifs" in life and circumstances we use (mostly as excuses) to rationalize our daily lives for example mine is: If I wasn't in a pretty solid relationship w/ a man who doesn't surf & is into triathlons (a whole separate beast of traveling in itself) and also you know the whole I have to make car payments and pay bills etc etc, I would pack my bags and surfboards and surf waves all over the world.
Well, maybe not so extreme to quit my job, drop everything, and wander the earth in search of waves (that would be ideal but totally unrealistic). During my year of single-dom I went on my first surf trip to Nicaragua and it was THE BEST TRIP I've ever taken my little okole on. I surfed twice a day everyday, we ate fish and rice dinners, drank lots of tona (beer) and flor de cana rum, we danced- almost every night we danced, woke up early before the sun, we surfed, we laughed, my buddies Matty and Nate fought over whose music would rule the cabana or car or wherever we were resorting to elementary school techniques- as soon as one would abandon the stereo to get another drink or just wander away for a second the other would seize the opportunity & swap out the iPod, hilarious. I dream about that trip often, Colorados, Mechapa, and Rancho Santana mostly and of course Gigante for other reasons. I know I already wrote a blog Nica Heart recapping a small part of my trip experience but I keep reliving the trip and dreaming of the next one. There are so many spots to surf in the world Bali, Fiji, Australia, Costa Rica, Mexico, too many to list. I wouldn't mind going back to Nica although I don't think I could top that first trip and there are so many places I want to visit I would love to surf some other breaks.
My surf life is the epitome of "lucky we live Hawaii" surf all year round, with a world class 7 mile stretch of breaks up north shore, and I've amassed a solid quiver. Not much I can complain about :) just wanted to say...
Happy International Surfing Day! Stay stoked! <3
Awesome photography by Jim Walsh (Roxy Girl Vanina Walsh's pop). Mahalo! Still one of my favorite shots<3
Queens, Waikiki 2010
Weirdly yours,
-K
No comments:
Post a Comment